Grand Duchy Hike Series: Arsdorf

Let's face it, Luxembourg isn't a popular destination for tourism.  Of course, many people pass through the capital for an afternoon on their way to more well-known places, but very few make it their destination.  The ones that do are in the know.  While you may not come to Luxembourg for famous landmarks, museums, or shopping (unless you have money to burn), the outdoors are certainly worth some time.  With 201 national walking trails, for example, the possibilities of outdoor exploration are almost endless.  

At the risk of letting the cat out of the bag, so to speak, I've decided to post routes, photos, and guides to our hikes.  I've done so unofficially before, but thought if I lump them all under "Grand Duchy Hike Series" it will be easier to find.  There aren't many trail descriptions online, so maybe these will help flesh the trail system out a bit.


When it comes to hiking in Luxembourg, we usually take a day pack with a few essentials.  It's always best to take along a rain coat and to wear waterproof shoes.  You never know when a downpour will strike or you have to walk through a sodden area.  Of course, we bring along water for ourselves and the dog.  Normally, we also pack a light lunch since the cafes aren't always open or nearby.  Of course, a few cameras get thrown in too.

First off, we have the Arsdorf trail, from the Tourism Board's blue bible.  Using Endomondo, this trail was mapped at being almost exactly 6 miles (Altitude: 1210ft gain/1171ft loss).

Arsdorf is a small town in the canton Redange, Diekirch district, with a population of about 230.  The hike starts in the parking lot in front of the town school.  Near the parking lot is a sign post with the maps of the national trails that run through the area and a guide post that show in which directions the various trails start.  The Arsdorf trail is marked with a blue #1 arrow.  That arrow points north, so we head in that direction.

Immediately, the trail begins to climb.  The first landmark is the small family chapel or shrine near a large farm.  The statue of Mary was originally from the town church, at least from what we could understand from the French label.  The shrine was built by the landowners of the property at the time.

The trail continues to climb towards Rt. 312 (N.27) through grain fields and cow pastures lined with the papaver rhoeas poppies, so indicative of this region in Europe.  

Several other wild flowers are dispersed along the roadside as well, providing brilliant splashes of color among the greens and yellows of the maturing grains.

Before long, you come to another roadside shrine, this one much older and less ostentatious than the chapel below.  Crosses like this one are all over Luxembourg and other parts of Europe.  Those of us from traditionally Protestant areas may wonder about their significance.  Traditionally, these wayside crosses mark the spot where someone died in an accident, or where they escaped death.  They can also mark parish boundaries, crossroads, or pilgrimage routes and function as important travelers' landmarks.  Some of these shrines may also commemorate a significant event in the life of the person who erected it.  There is no indication of what this particular cross meant to commemorate or memorialize, as is most often the case.

The path crests the "Heierich" hill and provides a wonderful view of the region before connecting with Rt. 312 (N. 27), which you must walk along with caution.  The trail leaves the road and climbs gradually once again along the hills and ridges overlooking the Sauer river.

While this would be the perfect spot for a picnic, the winds coming through the river valley are too strong to do anything but enjoy the view.  The trail then turns north, away from the river and into the forests of pine and deciduous trees.  The path uses hiking trails and forest roads used by the loggers.  Lumber is a major business in the Ardennes region, and over 200 companies operate out of Luxembourg.   In my opinion, these forests are some of the most beautiful that I've had the privilege to stroll through; perhaps it is the trees in various stages of maturity all in rows, or the often spotless forest floors maintained by the loggers, or the beautiful wildflowers, or the thick layers of moss on the ground, trees, and rocks.  The forests in the northern half of the country rarely disappoint.

During this particular time of year the Foxglove is in bloom and just about everywhere.  Between the poppies, daisies, foxglove, and everything else, flower lovers will be very satisfied.   Eventually the path begins its loop back, leaving the national "Circuit du Lac" pathway, and crossing one of the many intermittent streams.  The slope becomes quite severe at this point, so mind your footing.


 The trail passes through another field before returning to the Rt. 312 (N.27).  Follow the road for quite a ways, through the forest.  Traffic on this road can be a little heavy at times, but the visibility is very good and as long as you stay on the left drivers have plenty of time to see you.  Everyone we encountered turned into the oncoming lane to pass so we never felt unsafe.


Once again, the trail leaves the road and returns to the forest.  But, before you enter, pause at another wayside shrine, the Burfiels Cross.  Unlike most of these shrines this one comes with a story, and in English!  It recounts the tale of Wolfram the first hermit of Wolwelange (a town about 8 km to the southwest of Arsdorf).  According to the legend he and his step brother lived in Bigonville and absolutely hated each other.  Eventually, Wolfram murdered Ulrich in the woods near Wolwelange and burned down his half-brother's castle, Friedberg, in Arsdorf.  Later, when he stood before the body as it lay in state, Ulrich's wounds began to bleed again.  Wolfram fled and wandered Europe for many years as a "black knight."  Eventually, he went to Rome where he met a hermit who convinced him to return home in penitence.  He did so and built a hut on the site of the murder where he lived as a hermit for the rest of his life.  Every Friday he carried a large handmade cross from his hut to the site of Friedburg castle.  When he died, a written confession of the crime he committed was found near his body in the hut.  The hut eventually became the Hermitage which, according to the sign, was in use by hermits through the late 19th century.  The chapel is still in Wolwelange.  This roadside cross marks the original penitent route Wolfram took to Arsdorf.  It was erected in 1967.

From the cross, the road descends into the Ningserbaach valley and into the timber forests, some sections of which are being harvested.  Most of these hiking paths pass through private property, so it is best to stay on the trail.

These forest clearings caused from the logging are popular places for hunters to build stands from which they can boar and deer.  The hunters are usually the owners of the property, members of their families, or their friends.  Occasionally, you will also come across cabins in the woods used by the loggers and hunters.  Of course in the summer, many hunters won't be around, but you may stumble across the loggers or the owners managing the property.  Respect their property and stay on the trails.

The pathway ends up on a muddy logging road along the Ueschtreferbaach stream which it will cross after passing horse and sheep pastures and drainage ponds.  You will pass a newly built pavilion with picnic tables.  It is unclear whether this can be used by hikers or if it is private.  It is best just to move on as you approach the old restored Arsdorf Mill.  The mill seems to be closed to the public, but offers a tantalizing view through the hedge.

As path takes to the road and follows the course of the Burbich stream, it is time to return to Arsdorf and your starting point in front of the school.  You will walk through most of the town on your way to the car, and there are a couple of cafes from which to grab a drink or a snack.  The gardens in the town are particularly attractive during the summer.

So, that is the Arsdorf path.  At six miles, it's not too long and despite a couple inclines, it isn't the most strenuous of the trails we've hiked.  While there aren't any major landmarks along the way, the ones you do come across are interesting in their simplicity and mystery.

While we would certainly hike this route again, there are many more trails to explore.  So, stay tuned for the next route!