Grand Duchy Hike Series: Wrong Way Through Altrier

No Tour de France spectating last weekend.  They were down in the far southwest, very much out of driving distance.  So, in lieu of bike racing we have another edition to the Grand Duchy Hike Series!  Aren't you thrilled?

This one begins in Altrier, which is located in the Mullerthal (or Petit Suisse) region on the east border with Germany... you know Luxembourg isn't in Germany, right? (Sigh.  Can't believe I still have to tell people that.)

Altrier is a wee little town with a population somewhere around 180.  Now, according to the blue trail bible, the route begins here and loops around for 11.7 km if you follow the  #1 arrow.  The reality is that you have to follow route #2 which starts in Altrier.  Route #1 passes through Altrier, but the loop actually begins in the next town east, Bech.  We didn't know this until we started, so we followed the #1 arrow and basically did the Bech loop starting in Altrier.  Confused yet?  So were we.  Thank you, blue book fact checkers...

It all turned out well in the end as we still had a lovely hike with sun, rain, and critters- you know, the usual.  There was also a tunnel.

That squiggle in the center is when the arrow pointed in the wrong direction and we wandered around looking for the trail for about 10 minutes.

The first 3.5 miles are mostly level, through fields and forest.  Following Bech #1 also means you follow some sort of children's education trail that has plaques and wooden boxes with specimens in them.  For half of our hike, we were in a solid downpour, which was so heavy the trail became a stream in a few places.  It also brought out the snails (Helix pamatia) and their friends the slugs, including this orange one (Arion rufus):

 Besides the education trail, this route also crosses the Luxembourg route for the famous Way of St. James a couple of times.  

Pilgrims making a Camino through Europe follow the scallop shell symbol.
Pilgrims have been taking this route since the 8th Century A.D.

Once the trail descends out of the forest and fields above Bech, you begin to enter civilization again.  On the way into town you may meet some of the nonhuman residents.

The route now enters into Bech where we finally discovered we had been following the wrong signs.  Bech is also a tiny village with an attractive church and World War II veterans memorial.  The trail exits the town by tightly following a stream east towards the Buchholz Campground.

This campground is located on the grounds of the old railway station.  The station itself has been refurbished and houses the office and a cafe.  Here, the direction of the trail gets confusing.  The route arrow points down into a hollow.  You will follow the path to a playground where it will dead end.  Don't do that.  In actuality, the trail continues on the road which replaced the railroad.  There are signs indicating this further on.  The road passes through the old 1901 railroad tunnel, which is a fun aspect to the trail.

After exiting the tunnel you will continue to follow the paved road which turns into the hike and bike trail.  This section of the trail opens up to a beautiful view of the countryside and brings you to the itty-bitty hamlet of Hemstel, which apparently is the place to raise bees.

From Hemstel, the trail heads up very steeply back in the direction of Altrier.  You will enter the town from the south and return to the starting point.  Incidentally, if you take the proper trail for Altrier, #2, you will get to pass by a rather important archaeological site, a tumulus dating from the early La Tène Celtic culture (450-1 BCE).  When excavated, the tumulus (or burial mound) contained a Etruscan vase and a few other grave goods.  A large sign explains the history of the site in French and German.  Small  recent and old looter's pits pock the mound showing that it is a popular site for idiots to look for a quick buck.  Obviously, they can't read or they would know there isn't anything for them to find after the extensive excavation.

 

In total this trail was 6.65mi (10.7km) and had moderate terrain.  If there is a desire to do the route, begin at its proper starting place in Bech.  However, there are far more interesting routes to take in the Mullerthal.  At the very least, take the #2 from Altrier to see the Celtic burial site.  We will be revisiting this recreational region soon for our next hike. 

Stay tuned to see more of Petit Suisse!