Field Trip: Vianden

Despite the fact we now live in Europe, our weekly routine can be pretty unremarkable. It is certainly different than it was in Akron (for example, I go shopping every day), but for the most part it's run of the mill. The Mr. goes to work before the sun is up and comes home after dark (the price of living in a northern latitude in the winter) and I work on things around the house, make the daily trip to the "Cactoos" for groceries, explore the city with the Dog, and other such things. Oddly enough, I've found I'm busier here than I was in Akron and before I know it, it's the weekend!

That's when the magic happens. We've decided that we will make it a point to have an adventure every weekend and take advantage of being where we are as much as possible. Right now, we're still waiting for the funds to normalize (you only get paid once a month here instead of twice). Also, we had several initial expenses with the move. So, our adventures right now are along the budget friendly sort. However, because of Luxembourg's location and all the options which are available to tourists, doing things low cost isn't that difficult. We can see many things within driving distance of our house. Admission prices for attractions aren't anymore expensive than they are in the USA. If you can handle eating from a limited cafe menu instead of a restaurant, food costs can be kept low. If you can pack a lunch or dinner, you save even more. Plus, no matter what you're going to see, it's always something new and interesting. You can't be disappointed.

Last Saturday, we decided to visit one of the most popular tourist attractions in Luxembourg, Vianden Castle. We were not disappointed with our choice.

The town of Vianden is located right on the German border along the Our River. Its dominating feature is the massive fortress situated on the precipice above. In fact, it is one of the largest castles in Europe west of the Rhine River! The castle was built and expanded over several centuries on the site of a Roman fort. The earliest mention of a Count of Vianden is in 1090, but archaeological evidence shows the site was occupied long before that. Its features, such as an ornate chapel, kitchen, and a residence reflect a presence of wealth not all too common to your average hilltop keep. During the 13th Century, the Counts of Vianden were rivals in power to the House of Luxembourg and at this time a palace was added and Gothic Style renovation to the exterior was performed. In the 15th century, further additions were made before the castle's final abandonment sometime in the 16th century. Eventually, the House of Vianden became tied to the House of Orange-Nassau (the ancestors of the Dutch royal family). The castle was eventually sold off in 1820 and the buyer began dismantling it for profit and it quickly fell into ruin. However, the people were quite displeased with its deterioration and it was repurchased by the royal family and several small restorations were made. Unfortunately, the World Wars hindered any significant progress (it was used as a stronghold of the Luxembourgish Resistance during the Battle of the Bulge). It wasn't until the 1970's that a true restoration project began by the state and that continues to this day. Most of the main castle has been restored including the chapel and living spaces. Several rooms have been furnished with acquired pieces from the period it was occupied. One of the main features is the Hall of Archaeology which showcases artifacts found during excavations and models of the various periods of construction of the castle, including the original Roman fort.

Incidentally, Vianden castle is associated with one of Luxembourg's most prominent historical individuals, Yolanda of Vianden who lived between 1231 and 1283. She was the daughter of the Count and had been betrothed to Walram of Monschau. However, her personal leanings were towards a spiritual life and she ran away from her mother during a visit to the Dominican monastery of Marienthal. Her mother returned with an armed escort and threatened to destroy the Abbey unless Yolanda returned to Vianden. The daughter relented, but made it very clear that she had no intention of being anything besides a nun. Legend has it, that they locked her in the tower and she attempted to escape by climbing down bed sheets. Finally, her parents gave up and allowed her to return to Marienthal where she became a nun and the eventual prioress in 1258. Her mother actually ended up joining her in 1252 after the death of the Count. In 1290, Friar Hermann of Veldenz wrote her life story in the form of a poem over 5,000 lines long called "Yolanda Von Vianden." The original manuscript, rediscovered in 1999, is considered to be the oldest document written in Luxembourgish. The poem became extremely popular and Yolanda herself an inspiration for women in a time when the feminist movement was centuries in the future.

Victor Hugo (sculpture pictured below), the famous French author, is credited for revitalizing the castle in the minds of the people with his poems and drawings, some of which are on display in a museum dedicated to him in the town. In fact, he lived in the town and the castle itself for a time.

The castle is open year round, every day from 10:00 to 16:00, and until 17:00 in March and October, and until 18:00 in the summer. It cost us 5€ (about $6.50) a piece for a self guided tour. You can take pictures throughout the entire castle, except of the tapestries (flashes damage the delicate colors and fabrics). We spent about an hour and a half inside, but with a tour book and warmer weather we could have easily spent more time there.

Of course, the town is also worth a visit too. It dates to at least the time of the Roman occupation and is first mentioned in documents dating from 698. It has several shops and a few other museums too (one on Victor Hugo, one on toys and dolls, and another on fine arts). The Church of the Trinitarians has the supposed skull of Yolanda on display. Even if you just want to wander the town and take pictures, you'll have plenty to see. Of course, there are several restaurants and cafés to choose from too. I recommend parking below in the town and hiking up to the castle so you end your day at one of the restaurants close to your car instead of having to hike back up.

We arrived a little late so we really only had time to visit the castle. Afterwards, we explored the town for a bit before stopping in a café for a pre dinner drink. Then, we learned a valuable lesson: make dinner reservations. Apparently, only a few restaurants were open in town (they don't get much of a crowd in January) and we couldn't find them. So, we decided to head homewards and go to a restaurant there, but they were all full (when that's the case you don't wait for a table to clear, because they don't). So, much to our entertainment, we ended up at McDonald's. From now on, we'll pick a place ahead of time and make reservations for our adventures unless we're going to a bigger city where there are plenty of options.

So, here are some pictures from our field trip. Even on a grey winter day we were awestruck with the beauty of the town and the castle. We will definitely be going back to Vianden to see it throughout the year. Incidentally, the castle is quite inspiring at night as well due to some dramatic lighting. The castle had a vintage poster on display of the original illumination celebration that I would love to have a copy of.

Vianden is a must see for anyone visiting Lux and I certainly feel very blessed to live only 15mins away.